Friday, May 27, 2011

 

Ecclesiastical affairs

The Kent Suffolk borders were important church places for two reasons. First, there was an important port called Winchelsea, a jumping off point for invasions & other visits to France and Edward I wanted it to have the biggest and best church in the area. Second, there was the rich sheep country of Romney Marsh, rating lots of churches. Some of it was owned by an Archbishop of Canterbury who also wanted to have the biggest and best church in the area. So we took the opportunity afforded by our visit to take a tour.

Winchelsea. Regularly raped and pillaged by the French, not clear if it was ever finished. What is left now is the large chancel, bricked across where the crossing used to be. Various funerary monuments to knights in armour, including one immortalised by the immortal Millais in his picture called 'L'Enfant du RĂ©giment'. This particular knight in armour was Edward I's admiral of the fleet. He had a rather French name.

The museum next to the church included a case full of wooden truncheons which had once been issued to a squad of vigilantes formed during the late 19th century Fenian scare. Didn't say whether there were any Irish in the area at the time.

Icklesham. Norman with proper Norman pillars; village version of those in Durham Cathedral.

Pett. Mid 19th century rebuild. A small church which still felt rather short of customers. Gargoyles.

Fairlight. Another mid 19th century rebuild, mainly notable for the views of Fairlight Cove from the tower, sadly shut on the day of our visit. Jumping off point for our hunt for the source of Holman Hunt's picture of strayed sheep, a reproduction of which hangs over the PC at which I type. We succeeded in finding the headland which is the background to the picture. Not so sure about the rocks in the foreground. Must take a copy of the picture next time we try. But in the course of the hunt we did come across another memorial erected by the Ontario Heritage Foundation, this one to a chap called Grey Owl. See picture above and 25th April.

Fairfield. Another mid 19th century rebuild of a very old church, this one in the middle of a sheep filled field in Romney Marsh. Access gained by means of a large key hanging up by the back door of a nearby farm. Interesting king post roof, something which most of the marsh churches seem to sport. Numerological font: the basin was heptagonal and rare, the base of the circular pillar was pentagonal and the base proper was decagonal, not to say tenagonal. Neat, white painted box pews, with seats around all four (in)sides for greater conviviality during the sermons, with these last coming from a matching three tiered pulpit. Top tier for feast days, second tier for regular days and bottom tier for the prompter.

Brookland. A very grand church with a detached & shingled bell tower, stable doors to the porch and shutters to some of the windows. Nave arcades sloping outwards. I seem to remember something of the same sort at the rather larger St. David's cathedral. July 2007, but no record as we appear not to have been connected at Tenby. Fragment of a wall painting depicting the execution of Saint Thomas. Ancient lead font, a posher version of that at Walton on the Hill. See 13th April.

Ivychurch. Another very grand church with the north aisle doubling as an agricultural museum containing a range of implements, mostly to do with sugar beet.

Old Romney. Quite grand enough for a village which scarcely exists. Roof included what looked like cross-halved scissor tie beams, a new to me feature. Another interesting font. An even more interesting ladder into the bell chamber, 300 years older than H&S regulations about such things. Take one 20 foot tree and slice in half lengthwise. Chop suitable number of 2 foot billets into triangular sections. Tie the two slices together by nailing the triangular sections across them at intervals as treads. Erect at steep angle.

New Romney. The biggest and best church in the area. Lots of round arches and other Norman features. The first village in the area which had any shops. The people very like those one might come across in a fen town in Cambridgeshire or Lincolnshire. Maybe something to do with Romney Marsh being a fen land of sorts.

At which point we decided that enough was enough and moved onto Dungeness.

PS: Mr. Google suggests that any one wanting any more ecclesiastical information should consult http://www.worldtocome.org/home.html.

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